16 Routine Maintenance

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2025 Allegro Bus: Chapter 16

Washing

The paint on your Tiffin motorhome has a polyurethane base called Diamont. While multiple layers of clear coat sealants protect the paint against oxidation, the sealant must be protected from deterioration (Figure 0-1).

Paint manufacturers advise against using harsh cleaners such as Simple Green, Mr. Clean, or liquid dish washing soaps. The degreasing agents in these cleaners leave a residue on the sealant, which soften and damage the clear coat in time.

Baby shampoo provides an effective yet gentle cleaner. Without the typical heavy degreasers of most detergents, baby shampoo cleans without leaving a residue to gum up the clear coat finish. Generally, one ounce (1 oz.) is all you need per five-gallon bucket of water. Add one cup of food grade distilled white vinegar to your wash bucket.

Tiffin Motor Homes recommends the lamb’s wool pad sold by Mary Moppins. This enables you to safely wash your coach from the ground by placing the pad on an extension.

Do not mistake lamb’s wool with imitations. Imitation pads are made from 100% polyester, which is plastic. Plastic imitations will scratch the finish of the motorhome. For this same reason, avoid microfiber products to wash or dry your motorhome. Microfiber is made from 80% polyester.

Use only 100% cotton towels to dry your vehicle. Adding vinegar to your wash water and washing in the morning or evening will help prevent water spots. Water spots damage the exterior of your coach the same way they damage glass shower doors. They etch their way into the surface and removal becomes difficult. Prevention becomes the key.

Wash one side at a time, rinse, and then dry quickly using a squeegee followed by a towel placed over the cleaning head.

To remove oil and grease, remember an important rule of cleaning: give your product time to work. Dab a bit of concentrated cleaner like CleanEz by Mary Moppins—never an orange-based cleaner or one with petroleum distillates—onto a soft cloth. Apply to the oil spot and wait for 10 to 15 minutes before rubbing lightly to remove the oil. Rinse immediately.

Seals

The seals around the doors, windows, vents, slide-out trim and external seams must be checked at least semi-annually. Additionally, the roof seams must be inspected for cracking or peeling semi-annually. If deterioration is noted during a routine maintenance inspection, reseal the seams or seals with an approved sealant to prevent leaks.

Your Tiffin Motor Homes dealer can perform resealing inspections and subsequent work for you. Tiffin Motor Homes recommends that a Tiffin Motor Homes authorized service center perform these inspections periodically and perform necessary resealing when necessary.

Proper Sealants for Application

The following sealants are recommended for specific sealing applications, as noted in the table. These can be purchased through the Tiffin Motor Homes parts and service department by calling 256-356-0261.

Road Salt and Other Road Treatments

While many owners do not normally operate their coach on salt or otherwise treated winter roads, the following is suggested: Thoroughly wash the exterior, the undercarriage, and the engine compartment of your coach. If you find it necessary to utilize a commercial wash service, refrain from using brushes or highly caustic wash agents on your coach. Also, when washing the engine compartment, always remain mindful of the electrical and electronic components. Do not spray high-pressure water directly on these components.

Wheel Care

The care and maintenance of your wheels are simple and require no special material or products; follow the directions included in the Owner’s Information Package for these. Timely care and cleaning will maintain the appearance of these wheel products for many years.

Be sure to completely wash the aluminum wheels free of all road treatment salt or other chemicals, paying close attention to the area behind the decorative lug nut covers.

Roof Care and Maintenance

Proper care and maintenance of your motorhome, including your roof, is important for sustained, trouble-free performance. Normal maintenance is simple and easy and does not require special materials.

The roof of the motorhome is fiberglass and can be cared for in the conventional manner. Clean the roof at least every three months. The roof must be professionally inspected by a dealer annually.

Moisture Management

This section outlines important recommendations to manage moisture in your motorhome to avoid moisture-related damage, such as mold. The materials and methods used to construct your motorhome were selected in part to minimize air leakage and to create a weather-tight exterior shell. However, in order to protect your investment, and reduce the risk of moisture-related damage and costly repairs, attention and care has to be taken to manage moisture inside your RV.

NOTE: These are only suggestions intended to minimize moisture-related issues with your motorhome. If any concerns arise, contact Tiffin Motor Homes’ Service Department at (256) 356-0261.

Interior Care of Your RV

Signs of excessive moisture can be obvious, such as water droplets forming on surfaces or wet carpet. Conversely, signs of excess moisture can be subtle, such as condensation forming on metal surfaces. When symptoms appear, it is important to immediately determine the cause of the excess moisture and take appropriate corrective action to prevent moisture-related damage.

Control Relative Humidity

Monitoring and controlling relative humidity within the motorhome is one of the most important steps to minimize the risk for moisture-related damage. Ideally, relative humidity should be at 60% or less. Relative humidity can be monitored utilizing a portable hygrometer, which is a small device that measures temperature and relative humidity.

Use exhaust fans, the air conditioner, and/or a portable dehumidifier to manage moisture inside the RV to maintain relative humidity at 60% or less. In cold climates, relative humidity might need to be at 35% or less to avoid window condensation issues. If the motorhome is used, the majority of the time in a hot, humid climate, it might be difficult to keep relative humidity below 60%. A dehumidifier will help, but check the condensation (water) collection bucket regularly or discharge the condensation (water) directly to a drain.

Avoid Drastic Thermostat Setbacks

To minimize the opportunity for condensation to form on interior surfaces, maintain a comfortable temperature in your RV, and avoid nighttime setbacks of 10 degrees or more. Drastic setbacks that reduce the indoor air temperature quickly can increase the chance for airborne moisture to condense on cool surfaces such as windows. If you are away from your RV for an extended number of days, do not set the temperature back without taking other measures to manage relative humidity, including operating a dehumidifier with a continuous drain.

Manage Window Condensation

Window condensation issues can be identified by water or ice build-up, usually at the base of the window. The majority of these problems can be addressed by managing moisture generated inside the motorhome. Minor condensation issues are not unusual, especially for RVs used in colder climates. To help minimize window condensation, use exhaust fans vented to the outside, avoid drastic changes in thermostat settings, do not use “vent-free” heaters, and use window coverings wisely. For example, make sure to open curtains or blinds during the day to allow air to circulate and warm the window surface.

Carpet Care and Moisture Management

The carpet must be cleaned when it shows signs of discoloration or traffic patterns. A steam cleaning system must be used to clean the carpet unless otherwise noted in your warranty information. To manage moisture from the cleaning process, the cleaning system needs to be capable of extracting the excess water from the carpet after it has been cleaned.

IMPORTANT: Be sure the carpet is thoroughly dry before closing up the RV for storage. Water from the cleaning process can cause significant damage to the RV if the carpet is not completely dry before closing up the motorhome for an extended period.

Cleaning Tile and Wood Floors

Most floors only require a mild detergent and warm water for cleaning. More water on the floor is not always better for cleaning. Use a damp cloth to clean on a regular basis rather than wet mopping each time.

Storage and Other Isolated Areas within the RV

Storage areas are more difficult to condition since the areas are isolated from the main body of the RV. The surfaces of these areas are more at risk for condensation and surface mold growth. To minimize this risk, clean storage areas regularly, and allow an air space between stored items and the exterior wall to promote air circulation.

Use of Un-Vented Combustion Equipment

Un-vented combustion equipment, such as propane stovetops are a source of moisture within the RV. For every gallon of fuel consumed, approximately one gallon of water vapor is evaporated into the air. Whenever possible, operate an exhaust fan in combination with the use of any un-vented combustion appliance within the RV. Water vapor and other combustion by-products must be vented to the exterior of the RV. The RV owner must strictly follow use and maintenance instructions for safe operation of any combustion equipment, particularly un-vented equipment.

Exterior Care of Your RV

The exterior shell of the RV is the primary weather and moisture barrier. Over the life of the vehicle, the shell will require regular care and maintenance in accordance with other instructions for exterior care. The shell includes the roof, sidewalls, windows, doors, and under-floor of the vehicle. Particular attention needs to be devoted to ensure these components are maintained to ensure a tight barrier against bulk water intrusion. The shell must be inspected periodically for tears, gaps, and condition of sealants in accordance with this owner’s manual. Areas that require maintenance must be resealed using a similar, high-quality sealant used by the manufacturer. Particular attention must be devoted to ensure the slide outs are functioning properly. Each time a slide out is used, it must be inspected to ensure proper operation and sealing. The slide out gaskets must also be inspected to ensure proper sealing when the slide out is operated.

Use of Your RV

The square footage of an RV is significantly less than that of a single-family residence. This fact alone will elevate the relative humidity because there is less volume of air to help absorb or dissipate the humidity. For example, showering and cooking create a lot of humidity in a small area. In these instances, use of an exhaust fan and opening windows should reduce the relative humidity, particularly when living in the RV for an extended period.

Severe Environments

Prolonged use of your RV in severe environments—for example in extremely cold or hot-humid climates, will require extra care and maintenance to avoid moisture-related issues. In both extremely cold and hot humid climates, more attention needs to be focused on controlling the relative humidity within the RV. It also might require the use of a portable dehumidifier to manage the relative humidity within an acceptable range.

Storage of Your RV

During periods when your motorhome is not in use, care must be taken to ensure that moisture sources are addressed. Ideal storage of your RV would be in an enclosed, climate-controlled environment. When this is not possible, the following steps must be taken to ensure moisture is controlled:

Turn off all water sources.
Turn off all combustion appliances.
Drain the water tanks.
Drain the water heater.
Open all closets, cabinet doors, and drawers.
Close all windows and entrance doors.
Open a vent or a window enough to allow for some limited ventilation airflow, but not so far as to allow snow or rain to enter.
When storing the RV in high humidity climates, add a dehumidifier drained to exterior to control the humidity inside the RV during storage.
Refer to other sections of this owner’s manual for additional recommendations.

Modifications to Your RV

Consult Tiffin Motor Homes for guidance before making any modifications to your RV. It is important that changes be completed by a qualified service firm to ensure that moisture intrusion or accumulation problems do not occur.

Wet Areas

Areas that are exposed to water spills or leaks must be dried as soon as possible and definitely within 24 to 48 hours. Drying areas quickly minimizes the chance for moisture damage and possible mold growth, which can begin to form colonies within 48 hours. A variety of methods can be used to help the drying process:

Remove excess water with an extraction vacuum.
Use a dehumidifier to aid drying.
Use portable fans to move air across the surface.
Because moisture is key to mold issues, treat all signs of condensation and spills seriously and deal with promptly. Failure to deal with a moisture issue promptly might cause more severe issues where none initially existed, or might make a small problem much worse.
Learn to recognize signs of mold—do not paint over or cover up suspicious discoloration until you are sure it is not mold. The affected surface must first be cleaned and dried; residual staining may be painted.
Be sure to understand and eliminate the source of moisture accumulation as a part of the cleanup. Otherwise, the same issues will reoccur.
Small amounts of mold must be cleaned as soon as it appears. Small areas of mold must be cleaned using a detergent/soapy solution or an appropriate RV household cleaner. Gloves must be worn during cleaning. The cleaned area must then be thoroughly dried. Dispose of any sponges or rags used to clean the mold.

Tire and Safety Information

This portion of the Owner’s Manual contains tire safety information as required by 49 CFR 575.6. The National Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) can be contacted at 1-888-327-4236. Their website is http://www.safecar.gov and their address is NHTSA, 400 Seventh St, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20590.

Section One

The National Traffic Safety (NHTSA) has published a brochure (DOT HS 809 361) that discusses all aspects of Tire Safety, as required by CFR 575.6. This brochure is reproduced in part below. It can be obtained and downloaded from NHTSA, free of charge, from the following website: https:// one.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/TireSafety/ridesonit/brochure.html

Studies of tire safety show that maintaining proper tire pressure, observing tire and vehicle load limits, avoiding road hazards, and inspecting tires for cuts, slashes, and other irregularities are the most important things you can do to avoid tire failure, such as tread separation or blowout, and flat tires.

These actions, along with other care and maintenance activities, can also:

Improve vehicle handling.
Help protect you and others from avoidable breakdowns and accidents.
Improve fuel economy.
Increase the life of your tires.

This section presents a comprehensive overview of tire safety, including information on the following topics:

Basic tire maintenance.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading System.
Fundamental characteristics of tires.
Tire safety tips.

Use this information to make tire safety a regular part of your vehicle maintenance routine. Recognize that the time you spend is minimal compared with the inconvenience and safety consequences of a flat tire or other tire failure.

Safety First-Basic Tire Maintenance

Properly maintained tires improve the steering, stopping, traction, and load-carrying capability of your vehicle. Under-inflated tires and overloaded vehicles are a major cause of tire failure. Therefore, as mentioned above, to avoid flat tires and other types of tire failure, you must maintain proper tire pressure, observe tire and vehicle load limits, avoid road hazards, and regularly inspect your tires.

Finding Your Vehicle's Recommended Tire Pressure and Load Limits

Tire information placards and vehicle certification labels contain information on tires and load limits. These labels indicate the vehicle manufacturer’s information including:

Recommended tire size.
Recommended tire inflation pressure.
Vehicle capacity weight (VCW—the maximum occupant and cargo weight a vehicle is designed to carry).
Front and rear gross axle weight ratings (GAWR—the maximum weight the axle systems are designed to carry).

For motorhomes: Both placards and certification labels are on a sticker that is located in the rear closet.

Understanding Tire Pressure and Load Limits

Tire inflation pressure is the level of air in the tire that provides it with load-carrying capacity and affects the overall performance of the vehicle. The tire inflation pressure is a number that indicates the amount of air pressure—measured in pounds per square inch (psi)—a tire requires to be properly inflated. (You will also find this number on the vehicle information placard expressed in kilopascals (kPa), which is the metric measure used internationally).

Vehicle manufacturers determine this number based on the vehicle’s design load limit, that is, the greatest amount of weight a vehicle can safely carry, and the vehicle’s tire size. The proper tire pressure for your vehicle is referred to as the “recommended cold-inflation pressure.”

Because tires are designed to be used on more than one type of vehicle, tire manufacturers list the “maximum permissible inflation pressure” on the tire sidewall. This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that can ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.

Checking Tire Pressure

It is important to check your vehicle’s tire pressure at least once a month for the following reasons:

Most tires naturally lose air over time.
Tires can lose air suddenly if you drive over a pothole or other object, or if you strike the curb when parking.
With radial tires, it is usually not possible to determine under-inflation by visual inspection.

For convenience, purchase a tire pressure gauge to keep in your vehicle. Gauges can be purchased at tire dealerships, auto supply stores, and other retail outlets.

The recommended tire inflation pressure that vehicle manufacturers provide reflects the proper psi when a tire is cold. The term cold does not relate to the outside temperature. Rather, a cold tire is one that has not been driven on for at least three hours. When you drive, your tires get warmer, causing the air pressure within them to increase. Therefore, to get an accurate tire pressure reading, you must measure tire pressure when the tires are cold or compensate for the extra pressure in warm tires.

Steps for Maintaining Proper Tire Pressure

Locate the recommended tire pressure on the vehicle’s tire information placard, certification label, or in the owner’s manual.
Record the tire pressure of all tires.
If the tire pressure is too high in any of the tires, slowly release air by gently pressing on the tire valve stem with the edge of your tire gauge until you get to the correct pressure.
If the tire pressure is too low, note the difference between the measured tire pressure and correct tire pressure. These “missing” pounds of pressure are what you will need to add.
At a service station, add the missing pounds of air pressure to each tire that is under-inflated.
Check all the tires to make sure they have the same air pressure (except in cases in which the front and rear tires are supposed to have different amounts of pressure).

If you have been driving your vehicle and think that a tire is under-inflated, fill it to the recommended cold-inflation pressure indicated on your vehicle’s tire information placard or certification label.

While your tire might still be slightly under-inflated due to the extra pounds of pressure in the warm tire, it is safer to drive with air pressure that is slightly lower than the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended cold-inflation pressure than to drive with a significantly under-inflated tire. Since this is a temporary fix, do not forget to recheck and adjust the tire’s pressure when you can obtain a cold reading.

Tire Size

To maintain tire safety, purchase new tires that are of the same size as the vehicle’s original tires or another size recommended by the manufacturer. Look at the tire information placard, the owner’s manual, or the sidewall of the tire you are replacing to find this information. If you have any doubt about the correct size to choose, consult with the tire dealer.

Tire Tread

The tire tread provides the gripping action and traction that prevent your vehicle from slipping or sliding, especially when the road is wet or icy. In general, tires are not safe and must be replaced when the tread is worn down to 1/16 of an inch. Tires have built-in tread-wear indicators that let you know when it is time to replace your tires. These indicators are raised sections spaced intermittently in the bottom of the tread grooves. When they appear “even” with the outside of the tread, it is time to replace your tires.

Another method for checking tread depth is to place a penny in the tread with Lincoln’s head upside down and facing you. If you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, you are ready for new tires.

Tire Balance and Wheel Alignment

To avoid vibration or shaking of the vehicle when a tire rotates, the tire must be properly balanced. This balance is achieved by positioning weights on the wheel to counterbalance heavy spots on the wheeland-tire assembly. A wheel alignment adjusts the angles of the wheels so that they are positioned correctly relative to the vehicle’s frame. This adjustment maximizes the life of your tires. These adjustments require special equipment and must be performed by a qualified technician.

Tire Rotation

Rotating tires from front to back and from side-to-side can reduce irregular wear (for vehicles that have tires that are all of the same size). Look in your owner’s manual for information on how frequently the tires on your vehicle must be rotated and the best pattern for rotation.

Tire Repair

The proper repair of a punctured tire requires a plug for the hole and a patch for the area inside the tire that surrounds the puncture hole. Punctures through the tread can be repaired if they are not too large, but punctures to the sidewall must not be repaired. Tires must be removed from the rim to be properly inspected before being plugged and patched.

A Tire Rotation Example

For maximum mileage, rotate your tires every 5,000 miles. Follow correct rotation patterns.

Information on Passenger Vehicle Tires

P—The “P” indicates the tire is for passenger vehicles.

NOTE: Passenger car tires are not recommended for use on trailers, because the capacity ratings are not marked on the side walls of these tires. In the event that a passenger car tire is used, the capacity must be de-rated by 10%.

Next number—This three-digit number gives the width in millimeters of the tire from sidewall edge to sidewall edge. In general, the larger the number, the wider the tire.
Next number—This two-digit number, known as the aspect ratio, gives the tire’s ratio of height to width. Numbers of 70 or lower indicate a short sidewall for improved steering response and better overall handling on dry pavement.
R—The “R” stands for radial. Radial ply construction of tires has been the industry standard for more than 20 years.
Next number—This two-digit number is the wheel or rim diameter in inches. If you change your wheel size, you will have to purchase new tires to match the new wheel number.
Next number—This two or three-digit number is the tire’s load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can support. You might find this information in your owner’s manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer.

NOTE: You might not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.

M+S—The “M+S” or “M/S” indicates that the tire has some mud and snow capability. Most radial tires have these markings.
Speed Rating—The speed rating denotes the speed at which a tire is designed to be driven for extended periods of time.
U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number—This begins with the letters “DOT” and indicates that the tire meets all federal standards. The next two numbers or letters are the plant code where it was manufactured, and the last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. For example, the numbers 1612 means the 16th week of 2012. The other numbers are marketing codes used at the manufacturer’s discretion. This information is used to contact customers if a tire defect requires a recall.
Tire Ply Composition and Materials Used—The number of plies indicates the number of layers of rubber-coated fabric in the tire. In general, the greater the number of plies, the more weight a tire can support. Tire manufacturers also must indicate the materials in the tire, which include steel, nylon, polyester, and others.
Maximum Load Rating—This number indicates the maximum load in kilograms and pounds that can be carried by the tire.
Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure—This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.

Vehicle Load Limits

Determining the load limits of a vehicle includes more than understanding the load limits of the tires alone. On a motorhome, there is a federal certification label that is affixed in the rear closet. The certification label will indicate the vehicle’s gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). This is the most weight the fully loaded vehicle can weigh.

It will also provide the gross axle weight rating (GAWR). This is the most a particular axle can weigh. If there are multiple axles, the GAWR of each axle will be provided. For motorhomes, in the same location as the certification label described above, there is a vehicle placard in the entry door frame. This placard provides tire and loading information. In addition, this placard will show the vehicle’s seating capacity for people and a statement regarding maximum cargo capacity.

Cargo Capacities

For motorhomes, cargo can be added to the vehicle, up to the maximum weight specified on the placard. For motorized vehicles, the combined weight of passengers and cargo is provided as a single number. If fewer people are traveling, more cargo can be added. If more people are involved, the weight of cargo must be reduced. In any case, the total weight of a fully loaded vehicle, including passengers, cannot exceed the stated GVWR.

For motorhomes, the water and propane also need to be considered. The weight of fully filled propane containers is considered part of the weight of the RV before it is loaded with people or cargo and is not considered part of the disposable cargo load. Water, however, is a cargo weight and is treated as such. If there is a fresh water storage tank of 50 gallons, this tank when filled would weigh about 400 pounds. If more cargo or people are being transported, water can be off-loaded to keep the total amount of cargo added to the vehicle within the limits of the GVWR so as to not overload the vehicle.

Understanding this flexibility will allow you to make choices that fit your travel and camping needs. When loading your cargo, be sure it is distributed evenly to prevent overloading from front to back and side-to-side. Heavy items must be placed low and as close to the axle positions as reasonable. Too many items on one side might overload a tire.

The best way to know the actual weight of the vehicle is to weigh it at a certified public scale. Talk to your RV dealer to discuss the weighing methods needed to determine the various weights related to the RV. This will include weights for axles, wheels, hitch, and total weight.

How Overloading Affects Your RV and Tires

The results of overloading can have serious consequences for passenger safety. Too much weight on your vehicle’s suspension system can cause spring, shock absorber, or brake failure, handling or steering problems, irregular tire wear, tire failure, or other damage.

An overloaded vehicle is hard to drive and hard to stop. In cases of serious overloading, brakes can fail completely, particularly on steep hills. The load a tire will safely carry is a combination of the size of tire, its load range, and corresponding inflation pressure.

Excessive loads and/or under-inflation cause tire overloading and, as a result, abnormal tire flexing occurs. This situation can generate an excessive amount of heat within the tire. Excessive heat might lead to tire wear and eventually, tire failure.

It is the air pressure that enables a tire to support the load, so proper inflation is critical. Since RVs can be configured and loaded in many ways, air pressures must be determined from actual loads (determined by weighing) and taken from the load and inflation tables provided by the tire manufacturer. These air pressures might differ from those found on the certification label. However, they must never exceed the tire limitation for load or air pressure.

Tire Safety Tips

Preventing Tire Damage

Slow down if you have to go over a pothole or other object in the road.
Do not run over curbs or other foreign objects in the roadway, and try not to strike the curb when parking.

Tire Safety Checklist

Check tire pressure regularly (at least once a month), including the spare.
Inspect tires for uneven wear patterns on the tread, cracks, foreign objects, or other signs of wear or trauma.
Remove bits of glass and foreign objects wedged in the tread.
Make sure your tire valves have valve caps.
Check tire pressure before going on a long trip.
Do not overload your vehicle. Check the Tire Information and Loading Placard or User’s Manual for the maximum recommended load for the vehicle.

Section Two

Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit

Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX lbs” on your vehicles placard.
Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds.
The resulting figure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage capacity. For example, if “XXX” equals 1400 lbs. and there will be five 150 lb. passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage capacity is 650 lbs. (1400-750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.)
Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage capacity calculated in Step #4.
If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this section to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage capacity of your vehicle.

Section Three

Glossary of Tire Terminology

Accessory weight—The combined weight (in excess of those standard items, which may be replaced) of automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, radio and heater, to the extent that these items are available as factory-installed equipment (whether installed or not).
Bead—The part of the tire that is made of steel wires, wrapped or reinforced by ply cords and that is shaped to fit the rim.
Bead separation—This is the breakdown of the bond between components in the bead.
Bias ply tire—A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at alternate angles substantially less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Carcass—The tire structure, except tread and sidewall rubber which, when inflated, bears the load.
Chunking—The breaking away of pieces of the tread or sidewall.
Cold-inflation pressure—The pressure in the tire before you drive.
Cord—The strands forming the plies in the tire.
Cord separation—The parting of cords from adjacent rubber compounds.
Cracking—Any parting within the tread, sidewall, or inner liner of the tire extending to cord material.
CT—A pneumatic tire with an inverted flange tire and rim system in which the rim is designed with rim flanges pointed radially inward and the tire is designed to fit on the underside of the rim in a manner that encloses the rim flanges inside the air cavity of the tire.
Curb weight—The weight of a motor vehicle with standard equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, and, if so equipped, air conditioning and additional weight optional engine.
Extra load tire—A tire designed to operate at higher loads and at higher inflation pressures than the corresponding standard tire.
Groove—The space between two adjacent tread ribs.
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)—The maximum permissible weight of this fully loaded motorhome.
Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)—The value specified as the load carrying capacity of a single axle system, as measured at the tire-ground interfaces.
Hitch Weight—The vertical trailer load supported by the hitch ball.
Innerliner separation—The parting of the innerliner from cord material in the carcass.
Intended outboard sidewall—The sidewall that contains a white-wall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same molding on the other sidewall of the tire or the outward facing sidewall of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Light truck (LT) tire—A tire designated by its manufacturer as primarily intended for use on lightweight trucks or multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load rating—The maximum load that a tire is rated to carry for a given inflation pressure.
Maximum load rating—The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum permissible inflation pressure—The maximum cold-inflation pressure to which a tire may be inflated.
Maximum loaded vehicle weight—The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.
Measuring rim—The rim on which a tire is fitted for physical dimension requirements.
Non-pneumatic rim—A mechanical device which, when a non-pneumatic tire assembly incorporates a wheel, supports the tire, and attaches, either integrally or separably, to the wheel center member and upon which the tire is attached.
Non-pneumatic tire assembly—A non-pneumatic tire, alone or in combination with a wheel or wheel center member, which can be mounted on a vehicle.
Normal occupant weight—This means 68 kilograms (150 lbs.) times the number of occupants specified in the second column of Table I of 49 CFR 571.110.
Occupant distribution—The distribution of occupants in a vehicle as specified in the third column of Table I of 49 CFR 571.110.
Open splice—Any parting at any junction of tread, sidewall, or innerliner that extends to cord material.
Outer diameter—The overall diameter of an inflated new tire.
Overall width—The linear distance between the exteriors of the sidewalls of an inflated tire, including elevations due to labeling, decorations, or protective bands or ribs.
Pin Weight—The vertical trailer load supported by the king pin of a fifth wheel hitch.
Ply—A layer of rubber-coated parallel cords.
Ply separation—A parting of rubber compound between adjacent plies.
Pneumatic tire—A mechanical device made of rubber, chemicals, fabric and steel, or other materials, that, when mounted on an automotive wheel, provides the traction and contains the gas or fluid that sustains the load.
Production options weight—The combined weight of those installed regular production options weighing over 2.3 kilograms (5 lbs.) in excess of those standard items which they replace, not previously considered in curb weight or accessory weight, including heavy duty brakes, ride levelers, roof rack, heavy duty battery, and special trim.
Radial ply tire—A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at substantially 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Recommended inflation pressure—This is the inflation pressure provided by the vehicle manufacturer on the Tire Information label and on the Certification/VIN tag.
Reinforced tire—A tire designed to operate at higher loads and at higher inflation pressures than the corresponding standard tire.
Rim—A metal support for a tire or a tire and tube assembly upon which the tire beads are seated.
Rim diameter—This means the nominal diameter of the bead seat.
Rim size designation—This means the rim diameter and width.
Rim type designation—This means the industry of manufacturer’s designation for a rim by style or code.
Rim width—This means the nominal distance between rim flanges.
Section width—The linear distance between the exteriors of the sidewalls of an inflated tire, excluding elevations due to labeling, decoration, or protective bands.
Sidewall—That portion of a tire between the tread and bead.
Sidewall separation—The parting of the rubber compound from the cord material in the sidewall.
Test rim—The rim on which a tire is fitted for testing, and may be any rim listed as appropriate for use with that tire.
Tread—That portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.
Tread rib—A tread section running circumferentially around a tire.
Tread separation—Pulling away of the tread from the tire carcass.
Treadwear indicators (TWI)—The projections within the principal grooves designed to give a visual indication of the degrees of wear of the tread.
Vehicle capacity weight—The rated cargo and luggage load plus 68 kilograms (150 lbs.) times the vehicle’s designated seating capacity.
Vehicle maximum load on the tire—The load on an individual tire that is determined by distributing to each axle its share of the maximum loaded vehicle weight and dividing by two.
Vehicle normal load on the tire—The load on an individual tire that is determined by distributing to each axle its share of the curb weight, accessory weight, and normal occupant weight (distributed in accordance with Table I of CFR 49 571.110) and dividing by 2.
Weather side—The surface area of the rim not covered by the inflated tire.
Wheel center member—In the case of a non-pneumatic tire assembly incorporating a wheel, a mechanical device which attached, either integrally or separably, to the non-pneumatic rim and provides the connection between the non-pneumatic rim and the vehicle; or, in the case of a non-pneumatic tire assembly not incorporating a wheel, a mechanical device which attaches, either integrally or separably, to the non-pneumatic tire and provides the connection between tire and the vehicle.

Tire Pressure

Correct tire inflation pressure is essential to maximizing the life of the tires and assuring the safety of the vehicle and its occupants. Driving with tires that are not correctly inflated for the load of the motorhome is dangerous and might cause premature wear, tire damage, and/or loss of control of the motorhome.

An underinflated tire will build up excessive heat that might actually approach the vulcanization temperature of the rubber and lead to tread separation and/or disintegration of the tire.

Underinflated tires will also cause poor handling of the motorhome, rapid and/or irregular tire wear, and an increase in rolling resistance of the motorhome which, in turn, produces a decrease in fuel economy of operation.

An overinflated tire will reduce the tire’s “footprint” (i.e., its actual contact with the road); thus, reducing the traction, braking capacity, and handling of the motorhome. A tire that is over-inflated for the load that it is carrying will also contribute to a harsh ride, uneven tire wear, and the tire itself will be more susceptible to impact damage.

Maintaining correct tire pressure for each loaded wheel position on the motorhome is critically important and must be a part of regular vehicle maintenance.

Tire Maximum Load Rating

Federal law requires that the maximum load rating be molded into the sidewall of the tire. If you look at a tire sidewall, you might see some “typical” information, such as:

Max. Load Single 3640 Lbs at 85 psi cold

Max. Load Dual 3415 Lbs at 85 psi cold

The maximum load allowed for the size of the tire and load rating and the minimum cold air-inflation pressure needed to carry that stated maximum load are noted on the tire. Using less air pressure would reduce the load-carrying capacity of the tire.

NOTE: The amount of air pressure you need depends on the weight of the fully loaded motorhome. You cannot determine the correct air-inflation pressure, unless you know the actual weights of the motorhome.

Frequency of Checking Tire Inflation Pressures

When you have determined the “correct” tire inflation pressures for each of the motorhome tires (Figure 0-4 and Figure 0-5) and inflated the tires under “cold” conditions, meaning the tires haven’t been driven for more than one mile, then the air pressures in the tires must be periodically checked to make sure that they retain their proper pressures. It is recommended that tire pressures be checked at least once a month, or preferably, every two weeks, and before any major trip.

On long trips, the tires must be checked every “drive” morning. On short trips (a day or less), the tires must be checked before one departs on the trip and again before one returns home.

Check tire pressures when they are “cold”; that is, the tires have not been driven at all or, at most, less than one mile before being measured. In this manner, the tire pressure has not been increased by the heating associated with tire sidewall and tread flexure associated with traveling. If you check tires that are warm or hot, remember that they will necessarily read higher than normal. Do not “bleed” these tires down to the “cold pressure” readings, as they will probably then be underinflated when they are actually cool.

Do not make any adjustments to tire pressures when the tires are warm or hot, if such can be avoided. To make these tire-pressure measurements, purchase a high-quality truck-tire air gauge, which has an angled dual head. This type of gauge enables you to check inflation pressures of both the inner dual wheel, which has the valve stem pointing toward one, and on the outer wheel, which has the valve stem pointing away from one.

Pressure-sealing valve caps must always be used to protect the valve stems and prevent air from escaping from the valve stems

Weighing the Motorhome

Earlier, in Chapter 0, the procedures for weighing the motorhome were presented. These procedures provided the weighing of a “non-loaded” (i.e., not stocked with the possessions and provisions the user would normally have onboard for travel) motorhome. Obviously, any additional weight stored onboard (inside and underneath) the motorhome will contribute to the overall weight of the motorhome.

If not stored uniformly throughout the motorhome, additional weight of the possessions and provisions of the motorhome user will load each axle and each tire differently (front-to-rear and side-to-side distribution of that additional weight). Accordingly, it is necessary to weigh the motorhome fully loaded as the user would have it for travel. Moreover, it is necessary to weigh each tire position individually.

Overloading the motorhome can produce problems with the tires, wheels, springs, brakes, drive train, and other motorhome assemblies. In addition, an overloaded motorhome uses more fuel, is more difficult to handle properly, and can lead to driver fatigue more quickly. In a worst-case condition, if any component should fail, this could result in loss of control of the motorhome and subsequent damage.

In certain states, the Highway Patrol routinely weighs motorhomes to check for overloaded axle weights. Therefore, there are many good reasons for assuring that the motorhome is properly loaded and not overloaded—this can be accomplished through a proper weighing of the fully loaded motorhome.

You can find various places that have certified public scales where your motorhome can be weighed. For example, moving and storage company lots, farm suppliers with grain elevators, gravel pits, recycling companies, and large-scale commercial-truck stops are some of the possible locations for weighing the motorhome. You can also check the Yellow Pages of the telephone book for “scales – public” or “weighers” to determine other locations for weighing the motorhome.

NOTE: Tire manufacturer’s load and inflation tables can be found on the sidewall of the tires mounted on the motorhome.

NOTE: If the motorhome has duals, read dual capacity from the tire and multiply by 2 (two) to obtain dual-assembly load-carrying capacity.

More detailed information can be found in the manufacturer’s literature associated with the chassis and/or the tires provided with the motorhome. For example, the above graphic illustrates the inflation pressures for Michelin tires as a function of the loads per position for a specified speed of the motorhome. You can determine the appropriate inflation pressures for each of the tires on the motorhome, as a function of the loads they are to carry on a trip. Whenever there is a significant change in the loading regimen of the motorhome, it would be wise to re-calculate the load weights of the tires to ensure optimal use of the motorhome.

Tire Wear, Balance, and Wheel Alignment

In addition to tire inflation considerations, the tires must also be periodically examined for other types of normal “wear and tear.” If installed and maintained properly, all tires mounted on the motorhome must wear in a smooth, even pattern. If the tires begin to show irregular wear patterns and the motorhome alignment is still correct, then sometimes just rotating the tires by changing wheel position and rotation of the tires will allow the tires to wear evenly.

Check with the chassis manufacturer (Power Glide) and its literature in the Owner’s Information Package for particulars on maintaining proper wheel alignment.

Tire Cleaning

Proper cleaning of the tires will ensure maximum years of service. A soft brush and the normal mild soap must be used to clean the tires. Use care in applying any tire “dressing” product as these contain petroleum derivatives, alcohol, or silicones, which might cause deterioration of the rubber, possibly leading to cracking, and accelerate the aging process. In many instances, it is not the actual dressing itself, but the reaction of that product with the antioxidant in the tire. Heat can also compound this problem.

Interior Care

Carpet

A weekly routine of vacuuming the carpet and fabrics throughout the vehicle is recommended. The optional vacuum system has a central connection within the motorhome wherein a vacuum hose can be connected and the necessary vacuuming performed, as desired.

Remember to empty or replace vacuum bags before they become overly full—this practice will ensure that sufficient vacuuming capability is readily available to handle all cleaning situations that might arise. In carpet areas that receive the most sunlight, keeping the curtains closed whenever possible will minimize fading. Also, act quickly when anything is spilled or dropped onto the carpet to prevent or minimize staining.

To connect the cleaning hose, raise the wall remote inlet valve door and align hose-end coupling with the slots on each side of the intake opening. Firmly push into the intake opening. Make sure the hose-end coupling is connected and is locked in place. To disconnect the hose, push in the slots on each side of the hose coupling and pull the hose end straight out.

NOTE: The vacuum cleaner hose must be plugged into the outlet to activate the vacuum motor.

To start the vacuum cleaner:

Lift inlet valve cover on the wall.
Insert the hose cuff with a twist and push. The vacuum cleaner will start automatically.
To remove, turn the hose in either direction while pulling the hose toward you.

To change the dust bag, you will need to open the door on the vacuum cleaner by pushing the latch upward and removing the door completely. Remove the full bag and discard. Next, locate the pipe inside the vacuum chamber. Holding the new bag’s cardboard collar at approximately a 45 degree angle, insert the cardboard part of the bag against the upper back of the vacuum cleaner chamber behind the pipe. Lift the front of the collar over the pipe as far as possible.

When closing the door, tuck in the left and right corners of the bag so that the door is properly sealed and the latch clicks into place. The vacuum cleaning system comes with an array of attachments that can be connected to the hose ends for extensive cleaning purposes. Make sure they are firmly pushed in, and twist to hold in place.

For further instructions to change the dust bag, use the attachments, and proper cleaning technique, refer to the specific Owner’s Manual located in your motorhome.

Fabrics

The fabrics (Figure 0-7 and Figure 0-8), used in this Tiffin motorhome for the bedspread, draperies, headboard, and valances contain fire-retardant additives that might be damaged by use of improper cleaning products.

These items are DRY CLEAN ONLY. Water-based products are not recommended for cleaning the fabrics in your new vehicle. Most water-based, householdcleaning products are not formulated for use on these fabrics and might cause excessive shrinkage or fading. For best results, the fabrics in this vehicle must be cleaned by a professional carpet and upholstery cleaner.

Spills, spots, or stains must be treated as soon as possible to avoid permanent damage to the fabrics. If a spill occurs, blot the fluid with a dry towel, do not rub the spill as rubbing might cause the liquid to “set” in the fabric and cause a stain. When attempting to clean a spot or stain, always start from the outside and work inward to avoid spreading the stain further. Some stains or soils are extremely difficult or impossible to be removed completely. These stains must receive immediate professional attention. Spills, spots, stains, or soiled areas are the responsibility of the owner and are not covered by Tiffin Motor Homes Limited Warranty.

Walls and Ceiling

The wall and ceiling coverings must be cleaned periodically to maintain a new appearance. Use a nonabrasive cleaner with a soft cloth on the walls. Do not use solvents of any kind, as those solvents might damage the surfaces being cleaned.

Dashboard

To keep the motorhome dashboard (Figure 0-9) in like-new condition, regularly follow these guidelines:

DOs

Dust and clean the dashboard with a soft, damp cloth or chamois, wiping the service gently.
Use a mild detergent and lukewarm water.
After washing and rinsing the dashboard, dry it by blotting with a damp cloth or chamois.

DON’Ts

Use harsh chemicals that might damage the dashboard.
Use cloths containing grit or abrasive particles or kitchen-scouring compounds to clean or dust the dashboard.
Subject the dashboard to hard, direct blows.
Use boiling water, strong solvents, or other such materials to clean the dashboard, as they will soften the plastic.

Woodwork and Floors

The wood cabinetry must be cared for with furniture polish to sustain the natural beauty and luster of the wood. This procedure will also keep the cabinetry (Figure 0-10) looking new, prevent the wood from drying, and reduce chances of accidental staining or aging.

Use area rugs and floor mats by the entrance door to trap dirt.

Use soap and water to clean the flooring, begin by vacuuming the floor to remove loose dust and dirt. Then, damp mop the floor with a cleaning solution consisting of any standard cleaning solution. The mop must be damp, but not dripping. For further tips, see the manufacturer’s information sheet in your Tiffin Motor Homes Owner’s Information Package.

Countertops

To care properly for the countertops in your new vehicle, always use a heat pad or trivet to protect the surface from hot objects that might mar or damage the countertop surface. Hot pans and heat-producing appliances (such as electric skillets), when set directly on top of the countertop, can possibly mar the beauty and finish of the product.

Additionally, since heat-producing appliances can also damage countertop seams, it is essential to check with Tiffin Motor Homes to identify seam locations to avoid them during subsequent use of the motorhome. Although solid surfacing is repaired easily, certain steps must be taken to protect it.

Be sure to use a cutting board, rather than cutting directly on the countertop (Figure 0-11) surfaces. Although minor scratches and cuts can be repaired, a little care will ensure that the counter-top surfaces will keep looking new for years.

Avoid using harsh chemicals on the countertop. Wipe the countertop with a damp cloth to remove water spots. For most dirt and stains, wipe with a damp cloth and use soapy water or ammonia-based cleaners (e.g., Windex). If a stain does not respond to soap and water, for a matte finish, apply an abrasive cleanser and buff it with a Scotch-Brite pad, using a circular motion. Use the same technique in the case of a cigarette burn. If the finish is a gloss finish, contact the dealer for specific cleaning instructions.

Do not expose the surface to harsh chemicals, such as paint remover, turpentine, nail polish remover, or any stove and drain cleansers. If these chemicals come into contact with the countertop surfaces, immediately wash off these chemicals, using appropriate safety measures to avoid injury.

In the event of subsequent staining or spotting, sand the affected surface lightly with fine sandpaper (400 grit or finer), then buff in a circular motion with a Scotch-Brite pad.

Accessories

The metallic light fixtures, bath accessories, and faucets can be cleaned by wiping with a soft, damp cloth. Washing with warm water will remove dry water spots. Polishing those fixtures with a soft cloth will also enhance their appearance. Do not use cleaners that contain harsh or abrasive chemicals. Alcohol or other similar solvents must never be used.

Detectors

The CO/LP gas detectors (Figure 0-12) are self-contained and DO NOT require any maintenance other than normal cleaning and periodic testing. The smoke detector installed in the motorhome is a 9 volt, battery-operated detector. The CO/LP gas detector is wired directly to the house batteries.

The batteries in the smoke detector need to be tested periodically and replaced when necessary. When cleaning the case on any of the detectors, use a damp cloth or paper towel. Do not spray cleaners or wax directly into the case as this action might cause false alarms or hinder the normal operation of the detectors.

Tiffin Motor Homes recommends purchasing an inexpensive battery tester. This tester will allow checking of the batteries in the various alarms, any flashlights used in the motorhome, and batteries in other appliances, which might be in the motorhome during travels.

Condensation

Damage might occur to your vehicle if excessive condensation exists. Accumulation of condensation on surfaces within your motorhome occurs when warm, moist air contacts a cool surface. It is most evident on the inside of windows, but this problem can be controlled by:

Slightly opening a window or roof vent to allow the moisture to escape from the motorhome.
Using a small dehumidifier to remove moisture from the air.

Condensation levels are highest during times when a person is cooking or taking a shower in the motorhome, but these occasions are not the only times that condensation is present. Walls and ceiling panels might become wet when the moisture accumulates on these surfaces. Tiffin Motor Homes does not recommend the use of any catalytic heaters because of resulting extensive condensation.

Routine Maintenance Schedules

All routine maintenance is the responsibility of the owner and is not covered by the Tiffin Motor Homes Limited Warranty. Use the maintenance record in Chapter 0 to record all performed maintenance as required.

Any damage caused by improper or unperformed maintenance is not covered by the Tiffin Motor Homes Limited Warranty. Items supplied by other manufacturers might require specific individual maintenance not listed herein. Refer to the manufacturers’ suggested maintenance guidelines in the Owner’s Information Package.

Monthly

Check the water levels of the batteries.

Every Three Months

Check LP gas lines for leaks with soap solution or leak detector.
Clean the microwave hood exhaust fan filter and blades.
Test smoke alarm and carbon monoxide/LP gas detector.
Check operation of windows, latches, and hinges.
Clean the roof-ducted air conditioner filters.
Clean and inspect door and window seals; reseal where necessary.
Inspect and reseal around the tub and shower area where necessary.
Lubricate the exterior door hinges and latches with a graphite (silicone) lubricant.
Check, clean, and tighten battery cables and inspect batteries for proper fluid levels.

Every Six Months

Inspect the slide-out for proper seal. If realignment is necessary, contact an authorized Tiffin Motor Homes Service Center.
Inspect the exterior rubber slide-out seals and apply a UV inhibitor, such as 303 Protectant.
Change the battery in the smoke detector.
Rotate tires as recommended by the tire manufacturer.
Check all gas appliances for proper operation.
Have the LP system inspected by a qualified technician.
Lubricate the movable parts on the entrance step.
Change the batteries in both the smoke detectors.
For the optional washer/dryer, inspect the water hoses (both the hot and cold supply lines) to note any bulges, kinks, cuts, wear, or leaks. Especially note the hot-water hose, as this tends to degrade faster than the cold-water hose. Replace if hose feels “soft” or “spongy.”

Annually

Inspection of roof seams and joints must be performed by an authorized Motor Homes Service Center. If resealing is necessary, it is the owner’s responsibility and is not covered by the Tiffin Motor Homes Limited Warranty.
Sanitize the fresh water system.
Wax and buff all gel-coat surfaces on the vehicle as described previously in this chapter.

Winterizing

To store your vehicle for the winter months, it is necessary to winterize the water system to help prevent freezing of this system. To do this, follow these instructions:

Drain all the water from the water system including the holding tanks and freshwater tank. Also, drain the water filter. For the holding tanks, open the gate valves to drain the tanks.

NOTE: This procedure is to be performed only at a wastewater pumping station to prevent dumping of contaminated water elsewhere.

Remove the filter cartridge from the water filter and store it in a clean environment. Empty any excess water from the filter housing and replace the housing.

Turn the by-pass valve located in the exterior sanitation compartment to the “by-pass” position to prevent filling the water heater tank with antifreeze.
Disconnect the inlet connection to the water pump located in the sanitary service compartment under the motorhome. Attach the supplied vinyl hose (through the plastic coupling on the hose) to the inlet connection and hand-tighten that connection. Do not over-tighten.
Place the other end of the hose into a gallon of freshwater system antifreeze (one can refer to the local Tiffin Motor Homes dealer or representative for the freshwater antifreeze formulation for your specific area).

NOTE: Do not use automotive antifreeze; use only antifreeze approved for RV applications. Otherwise, damage to the systems being protected might result.

Turn ON the water pump to start the flow of antifreeze. Turn ON each faucet, one at a time and allow pure antifreeze to run through that piping. Let about one cup drop into the drains to protect the traps.
When all the antifreeze is withdrawn from the bottle, disconnect the clear vinyl hose from the water-pump inlet connection and reconnect the inlet line to the water pump. (This might require more than one gallon of antifreeze).
When the winterizing process is completed, turn the water pump OFF and then reconnect the water line. Store the vinyl hose for future use.
Open the water supply valve that controls flow from the pump to the tank to help prevent freezing on that water line.

NOTE: The motorhome also has an exterior shower that must be winterized, as well.

If the motorhome is equipped with an optional icemaker, the following additional steps must be taken.

Whirlpool Residential Refrigerator Ice Maker

Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.
Locate the water supply shut off valve and turn OFF the water supply.
Disconnect the water supply line at the refrigerator and drain the supply line completely.
Locate the icemaker fill tube at the rear of the refrigerator and follow the water line down to the water valve.
Remove any covers if necessary.
Disconnect the water line from the water valve, and drain the water from the line and the valve. Use a small pan to catch water.
Remove the water filter cartridge (if applicable.)

NOTE: Reinstall a new water filter cartridge when the refrigerator is put back into service.

De-Winterizing

Open both of the low-point drains to allow the antifreeze solution to drain from the water system.
Close the low-point drains and connect your vehicle to the city water system. Put water in the freshwater tank and pump at least one gallon through the water pump to remove the antifreeze from the water pump. Keep the water heater in the bypass mode.
Open the kitchen faucet, bath faucet, and inside and outside showers, turning ON both the hot and cold-water valves, and flushing the stool until the antifreeze solution is flushed out of the system and the water flow is clear.
Open the water heater bypass valve. Open the freshwater tank supply valve from the pump and the icemaker valve.
Reinstall the (optional) water filter.
Be sure to close the fresh water tank drain valves to allow the tank to fill.