13 Plumbing and Bath Features

Tank-Level Monitor

The tank-level monitor (Figure 0-1) enables checking the approximate levels in the fresh, gray, and blackwater holding tanks using the level monitors.

The tank-level monitor is located on the 10" touch panel in the hallway.

To use this monitor, press the LEVEL TEST button, and read the fresh, gray, and black-water tank levels.

The “empty” indicator light will briefly come on when the button is pressed. If the tank is full, all of the lights will be ON. Lights are sequentially arranged to indicate fluid levels in approximately third-tank increments. For example, if the tank selected is approximately two-thirds full, then the indicator lights “E” (for “empty”), “1/3”, and “2/3” will be lit.

Kitchen Sink

The kitchen sink (Figure 0-2) is a built-in double sink with flipout drawer at the front. A large galley window (Figure 0-3) is provided above the sink to allow for additional natural lighting in the kitchen area.

Wash the sink only with mild detergents and water and use a soft cloth for subsequent drying and polishing.

Bathroom Sink, Shower, & Accessories

The motorhome is equipped with a shower and sink (Figure 0-5 and Figure 0-4). The shower uses a wallmounted shower system. The bathroom sink area features a glass undermount sink with deck mounted faucets, and adjustable vanity shelves.

Use fiberglass cleaning or mild cleaning supplies to avoid scratching the surfaces.

ShowerMiser Water Saving recirculator is a part of the new shower system. It simply connects to your shower outlet. By flipping a small lever, you are able to redirect the cold water from the shower that would normally go down the drain, back into the fresh water tank. With its unique and patented color-change ability, will notify you in under 4 seconds (at normal room temperatures) that hot water has arrived. Once the hot water is present, just flip the lever back to the showerhead and you have hot water ready to go. (Blue button above the single handle faucet).

Water Pump

The water pump is self-priming and totally automatic, operating on demand whenever water is required. The water pump is used to pressurize the freshwater system when the unit is not connected to city water. The switches (Figure 0-7) are located in various conveniently located areas throughout the motorhome where water is accessible, or on the Spyder Controls System (Figure 0-6).

To start the pump:

1. Fill or partially fill the fresh water supply tank.
2. Open the kitchen and bathroom faucets.
3. Turn the water pump switch to ON and allow the water to fill to the water line and the hot water heater.
4. Close each faucet after it delivers a steady stream of water (close the cold-water faucet first). Leave the hot water faucets ON until they also deliver a steady stream of water. This procedure will ensure that the water heater is filled with water.

The water pump will stop running once all faucets are closed. The water pump is now ready for automatic operation. The pump will run when a faucet is open and stop when a faucet is closed.

If water does not flow when a faucet is turned ON while using the demand system, use the following troubleshooting chart:

All the water must be drained from the freshwater system when the unit is not in use for extended periods. For more detailed information regarding the water pump, refer to the water pump manufacturer’s brochure in your motorhome Owner’s Information Package.

City Water Connection

When connecting your unit to city water, use the water hose (Figure 0-8) manufactured and labeled for potable water service—this will ensure that the hose selected for use will not alter the taste of the water.

To connect the city water supply (Figure 0-9), connect one end of the hose to the city water supply.

Turn the city water supply ON for a few seconds to clear the line. Once the hose has been flushed, turn the supply OFF. Connect the other end of the hose to the city-water connections on the motorhome. Once the city water fill valve is opened, water is supplied to the freshwater system including the hot water heater, faucets, and toilet. Turn ON the water supply and open all of the faucets to clear any trapped air within the plumbing lines within the motorhome.

Once any air pockets have purged from the water lines and water flows freely, close all of the faucets. The city water supply is pressurized; therefore, the water pump is not needed when the water system of the vehicle is connected to the city water system.

Filling the Freshwater Tank

The freshwater tank is normally filled from the city water connection. The yellow handle city water/tank fill valve determines whether the city water is going through the water system or into the freshwater tank. Since there is no automatic shut-off when filling the freshwater tank, check the level from the monitor panel while filling the freshwater tank on the motorhome.

The excess water will be vented from an overflow in the vent pipe onto the ground when the capacity of that tank has been reached. This pipe is installed in the freshwater tank to prevent possible tank rupture from inadvertent overfilling.

All of the water must be drained from the freshwater system when the motorhome is not in use for an extended period.

Water Filter

This unit is equipped with a water filter (Figure 0-10), which must be removed before disinfecting the fresh-water system.

First, remove the water filter and then replace cover to allow the sanitizing solution access to the faucets. As installed, the filter will remove chlorine, dirt, and other matter. The filter will also eliminate most phenol (or similar) odors and tastes while delivering sparkling, taste-free water for drinking and cooking.

The water filter is located in the sanitation compartment on the outside of the motorhome. The water filter is not guaranteed to remove the tastes and odors of iron and sulfur. To remove these impurities, you need to chlorinate the water. Replacement filters are available that will filter iron and sulfur. Ask your dealer or RV supply center about purchasing an iron and sulfur filter.

If you are traveling in an area where the water has high iron and sulfur content, add one tablespoon of chlorine bleach to every 10 gallons of water in your tank—this will precipitate the iron or sulfur so that the filter can remove those impurities.

If you are at a site where the unit is connected to a city water supply, you will not be able to chlorinate the system because the water flows straight to your faucets and not through the freshwater tank.

Filters must be changed every 6-12 months depending on the quality and quantity of water that is used in your motorhome.

Freshwater Lines

Check all of the plumbing connections for leaks at least on an annual basis.

If the water pump runs when all faucets are turned OFF, check for a possible leak. Be sure that the drain valves are closed. Connections at the kitchen and bathroom faucets normally seal by hand-tightening them and then making an additional half-turn with a wrench.

If a fitting leak persists, disconnect it completely and visually inspect it for mineral deposits or foreign material stuck on the sealing surfaces. Clean the surfaces thoroughly and reinstall the fitting. Take the motorhome to an authorized Tiffin Motor Homes service center for additional repairs if the water system continues to leak.

Follow the winterizing instructions given in Chapter 0 to reduce risk of leaks caused by cracks from freezing pipes. Left unchecked, freezing damage can be extensive and expensive.

Sanitizing

To ensure complete disinfecting of the freshwater system, Tiffin Motor Homes recommends that the following procedures be performed on a new system, on one that has not been used for a length of time, or one that might have become contaminated. This procedure is also recommended before long periods of storage, such as during the winter months:

1. Drain the freshwater tank by opening the drain valve. All of the faucets should be in the closed or OFF position.
2. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and one-half cup of chlorine bleach (5% sodium-hypochlorite solution). Prepare enough of the chlorine solution to administer one gallon of solution for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. For sanitizing this unit, prepare 4½ gallons of the chlorine solution. This mixture puts a 50 ppm (parts per million) residual chlorine concentration in the water system that will act as a quick-kill dosage for harmful bacteria, viruses, and slimeforming organisms. Concentrations greater than 50 ppm might damage the water lines and/or the tank.
3. Once the freshwater tank is empty, close the drain valves in the water tank.
4. Pump the chlorine solution into the tank by taking the hose attachment and attaching it to the pump and then put in the chlorine solution. Close the valve from the fresh water tank to the pump and open the valve from the solution to the pump. Turn the tank fill valve from “city water” to “tank fill.” Turn ON the water pump until all of the solution is pumped into the fresh water tank.
5. Turn OFF the water pump. Open the valve from the tank to the water pump. Fill the water tank with the city water tank fill (or by using the same method as was used to put the sanitizing solution into the tank). Remove the water filter (from the drink dispenser faucet, if installed). Open each faucet, in turn, including the kitchen faucet, bath faucet, and inside and outside showers, turning ON both the hot and cold faucets and flushing the toilet until all of the air has been purged from the pipes and the water runs freely. The entire system will then be filled with the sanitizing solution.
6. Allow the 50-ppm disinfecting solution to stand in the system for at least four hours.
7. Drain the system and flush it with freshwater. The water system needs to be flushed with water repeatedly, if necessary, until there is no chlorine taste or smell left in the system. To remove any excessive chlorine taste or odor that might remain, prepare a solution of one quart of vinegar to five gallons of water. “Rock” the tank containing the solution by moving the vehicle forward and backward several times to clean the tank; then, drain that tank and refill with clean water.

Wastewater General Information

The waste drainage system was designed to provide adequate and safe storage and/or disposal of waste materials. All of the materials used in the fabrication of this system are tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory. The drainage system uses plastic piping and fittings connected to the sinks, toilet, and holding tanks.

This plumbing permits the drainage of these fixtures to an outside termination. The vehicle should be reasonably level for best operation of both of the wastewater systems.

There are two, separate wastewater systems. The gray-water system is for wastewater from the sinks and shower. The black-water system is for sewage waste from the toilet. Each wastewater tank has its own control valve and both drain through a common sewer-drain hose.

Your Bus may have an optional Waste Water Elimination system. Please refer to the manufacture owner’s manual for proper operation.

Toilet

All units are furnished with a mid-toilet (Figure 0-11) and some units are furnished with a mid-toilet and rear macerator toilet (Figure 0-12). Both toilets operate with water from either the fresh water tank with the water pump ON or the city water supply. Before using the mid-toilet or the macerator toilet, add water to the bottom of the tank. Refer to owner manuals for operating instructions, and refer to “BlackWater Holding Tank” instructions.

• When using your mid-toilet, fill the toilet ¾ full of water. To add water to the toilet bowl, lift the flush handle to fill the bowl until the desired water level is reached. To flush the toilet, push the handle down, then release it.

• When using your rear macerator toilet (if your coach is furnished with one) press the ADD WATER switch to fill the bowl to the desired water level. To flush the toilet, press the FLUSH switch, and then release it.
• The toilet must be cleaned regularly for maximum sanitation and operational efficiency. Clean the toilet bowl with a mild bathroom cleaner.

Black-Water Holding Tank

The “black-water” (i.e., sewage) holding tank is located directly beneath a non-macerator toilet. Before using the toilet, you will need to treat the tank with water that is mixed with an odor-controlling chemical. These chemicals are readily available at any RV supply store. Pull the toilet levers forward to allow the chemicals to mix with the toilet water. Continue pulling the toilet levers until a depth of at least one inch of solution is directly under the toilet. Release the levers. The waste tank is now ready for use.

Gray-Water Holding Tank

The gray-water holding tank is located in the underbelly of the vehicle. It is primarily used for the drainage from the kitchen and bath sinks, and the shower.

P-Traps

Each of the sink drains and the shower drain has a water trap (P-trap) to prevent holding-tank odors from entering the vehicle.

These traps must have water in them to trap odors. When the vehicle is in motion, the water might splash out of the sink and shower drains. When the vehicle is stored, the water might evaporate from these traps allowing odors to enter the vehicle. If this occurs, run water from the faucet into the drain, allowing water to fill the traps again.

Wastewater Disposal

Both of the holding tanks terminate in a valve arrangement that permits draining each tank separately or together.

Drain the black-water tank first before draining the gray-water tank. This procedure permits the water from the gray tank to wash the black-water residue from the drain lines and hose found in the external sanitation compartment.

The valves that open to release the water are called gate valves. The blade that closed the opening in the sewer drainpipes is connected to the T-handle to release contents of the tanks when pulled. The sewer line must be securely capped during selfcontainment use to prevent leakage of waste materials. Do not pull the holding tank gate valve OPEN when the protective cap is installed on the pipe.

Always drain the tank into an acceptable sewer inlet or dump station. Whenever possible, drain both the holding tanks before traveling. The carrying capacity of your vehicle will be reduced if water is left in the black or gray tanks. The holding tanks must be drained only when they are at least ¾ full. Doing this will provide a sufficient volume of water to allow the complete flushing of waste materials in the drain lines and hose. If the tanks are not ¾ full, add enough water to allow for sufficient flushing.

Unscrew the cap from the drain. Connect the hose, with the adapter in place, to the drain fitting. Open the gate valve completely by pulling on the T-handle. The tank will start to drain as soon as the T-handle is pulled. After you have drained the black-water tank, immediately drain the gray-water tank. This procedure helps to flush the black-water from the sewage hose.

When both the tanks are empty, flush them with a freshwater rinse before you close the valves. The gray tanks are flushed by pouring a couple of gallons of water into a sink drain. The drain outlet is engineered for quick release of the drain hose adapter. Always close the gate valves and secure the end cap to prevent leakage while the vehicle is in transit.

After draining the black-water tank, add a holding-tank deodorant to help control the odor and break down the solids. Follow the instructions given on the holding-tank deodorant package.

Sewer Connection and Camping

While using the motorhome, it is important to keep the black-water holding tank gate valve closed at all times, except when dumping. This allows an ample amount of liquid to remain in the tank to provide a smooth flow through the gate and the drain valves when dumping.

Sufficient liquid in the tank causes a swirling action that takes any accumulated solid wastes with it. Accumulation of solid wastes in the black-water tank can be avoided by keeping the gate valve closed when connected to the sewer connection. The gray tank can be kept open while hooked to a sewer connection.

No Fuss Flush

This vehicle is equipped with a flushing system for the black-water holding tank. When draining your sewer tank, attach a water hose to the tank flush connection. After the tank is drained, leave the gate valve “open” and open the water valve to allow the water to spray inside the black-water tank. This will clean the inside of the tank of any debris that might be left inside the tank. After this procedure is done, disconnect the freshwater hose and close the gate valve.

Exterior Shower

Your motorhome has an exterior shower (Figure 0-15) for your use and convenience outside the motorhome.

The exterior shower is located in the service compartment on the driver’s side and enables you to do such things as rinse off sand or grass, muddy shoes, or bathe yourself outside of your motorhome.

The faucet operates just as it would in your kitchen or bathroom.

There is also a soap dispenser and light conveniently located in the compartment.

Aqua-Hot Heating System

The Allegro Bus is equipped with an Aqua-Hot heating system (Figure 0-16) that provides a continuous, ondemand supply of domestic hot water, and interior zone heating where and when it is needed.

In the Allegro Bus, the controls for the Aqua-Hot heating system are integrated with the Spyder Controls System. To activate the Aqua-Hot heating system, select the AquaHot option from the Spyder Controls System home screen. By activating this switch, a supply of hot water as well as interior heat can be provided.

The heating feature will be controlled by the thermostat mounted on the Spyder Controls System. It is operated off the furnace function of the thermostat to provide interior heat. Hot water will be supplied instantaneously and continuously at any time the diesel burner switch is activated.

If interior heat and hot water are demanded from the Aqua-Hot system at the same time, hot water will simultaneously take precedence over interior heat; therefore, causing the interior heat to shut down and turn off until the water flow is turned off from water sources.

Also featured in the Aqua-Hot system is an electrical burner switch (labeled Electric Water Heater). With this switch activated and shore power available, it will supply a very limited amount of hot water and limited interior heat.

The surge tank (Figure 0-17) located in the basement must be routinely inspected to make sure the antifreeze fill line stays in the acceptable zone. If the antifreeze becomes low, you must add the recommended antifreeze stated in the Aqua-Hot owner's manual. If antifreeze is totally depleted from the surge tank, a switch will be released inside the main Hydro-Hot tank, disabling the system from operating. Antifreeze will then have to be added to the tank to reactivate the switch and allow the system to operate.

If batteries accidentally become discharged and the Aqua-Hot system is activated, the system will automatically shut down before batteries are totally discharged. Once power is restored to batteries, the system must be reset on the outside control board.

Plumbing Diagram